A Day in Mott Haven

In the southwest corner of the Bronx sits Mott Haven, a neighborhood of juxtapositions. The highest concentration of public housing in the city directly faces newbuild luxury high-rises that are still under construction—towering over three tiny historic districts with row houses dating back to the 19th century. The oldest church in the Bronx is mere blocks away from the only LGBTQ center run by Black Trans folks. Mott Haven is a high-density, low-income neighborhood—a true melting pot with excellent barbeque, tamales, and traditional Guatemalan fare all on the same stretch of 138th. Some say the area is rapidly gentrifying, calling it the next Williamsburg or Long Island City, while others say that Mott Haven is resistant to gentrification and that the high rises will never fill up. But why let other people tell you what it’s like? Follow my guide for a great day in Mott Haven and see for yourself!

Let’s start with St. Mary’s Park. Once part of the estate of Jonas Bronck—the European settler for whom the Bronx is named)—the land was converted into a city park in 1887. It became home to the Bronx’s first playground in 1914 and still boasts a playground today, along with a dog run, a recreation center with a pool, and a running track. While you don’t get the fully immersive feel of Prospect Park, there is lovely foliage and scenery at St. Mary’s. If you take the winding paths through the park on a summer day, you are likely to spot food vendors, as there’s plenty of space for picnicking. Plan your visit for a Thursday and stop by the farmers market at the north end of the park on 149th Street.

When you’ve enjoyed the park long enough, make your way south to St. Ann’s Episcipol Church. This historic landmark is the oldest church in the Bronx and the resting place of Gouverneur Morris, known as “the Penman of the constitution.” He built it in memory of his mother, Ann Cary Randolph Morris, who is also entombed there. The church is not just a historic landmark—it remains an active parish to this day. Just around the corner, make your way from historic Bronx to the present day, where you will find the cozy, well-appointed Botanica Lupe. The proprietress is friendly, welcoming, and fluent in English, and the shop is well-organized with all types of candles, baths, sculptures, and beads. Look for spellwork candles in lovely scents like rose and honey, which are unique to this shop.

By now, you’ve probably worked up an appetite, and Mottley Kitchen is the perfect spot for a bite. This bustling cafe is always busy but spacious enough to not feel overcrowded, and it even has a lovely open roof deck. The coffee and tea are excellent, and the menu offers all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and salads. Once you’re satiated, we have one more historic site before heading down to the waterfront.

From Mottley Kitchen, head west through the historic district toward the Mott Haven Library. Along the way, you’ll pass historically designated row houses and brownstones. Still an active branch of the New York Public Library, Mott Haven is an original Carnegie library and a designated historic landmark.

Next, we’ll head south to Bronx Native. Along the way, keep your eyes peeled for Mott Haven’s famous street art murals—nearly every underpass is bright and colorful with unique and creative designs. Bronx Native is easy to miss if you don’t know what to look for; styled like a classic New York Bodega, it sits next to an auto repair shop. When you spot the bench and newspaper box, you know you’ve arrived. A must-visit for Cardi B fans, the shop offers borough specific apparel and accessories, and feels a bit like stepping into a museum.

We’ll end our day just one block away at The Lit Bar, a well-appointed bookshop offering new books and gifts that focus on the Black & Latinx experience, as well as Bronx natives. They also host incredible events, so be sure to check the calendar before you go. My favorite bar in the area is right in the back of The Lit Bar—once you have selected your book, head back to enjoy it with a glass of wine and a charcuterie board. If cocktails are more your speed, head around the corner to Bar 47, which boasts a great happy hour, tasty snacks, and fun events like trivia and pool competitions. For my beer babes, don’t worry—I got you! Just down the block, you’ll find Bricks and Hops—a beer garden boasting 30 rotating taps and even more options by the can. They also have the most extensive food menu of the three, so if your walk through the Bronx left you craving more than bar snacks, stop here for a full meal.

While it may not be a typical tourist destination or a hipster haunt, Mott Haven is a vibrant and rapidly changing neighborhood, with the rich history and cultural diversity that make New York City so beloved. Spend an afternoon there and catch the vibe at this unique moment in time.